Mute Switch Bike Sheds

A few days ago there was a big kerfuffle about the ring/silence switch on the iPhone. People have been coming out of the woodwork with their thoughts and opinions on the matter. Don’t worry. I’m not going to post my thoughts on the issue here. Yes, I have an opinion, but really what I want to highlight is the debate itself. More importantly, I want to discuss why this is such a polarizing issue.

But first, a little background

If you’re reading this post anywhere near the posting date you can safely skip this section.

During a performance of the New York Philharmonic a very distinctly iPhone ring started to play. It continued making noise for quite some time. Finally the conductor had had enough and stopped the performance to confront whomever had their phone ringing. Unbeknownst to the owner, his phone had an alarm that was set to go off during the performance. He didn’t know about the alarm as he was given the phone just prior to the performance and thought he had set the phone to mute.

Due to the design of the iPhone, alarms will sound even if the mute¹ switch is turned to off. Pundits and non-pundits alike have been arguing the finer points of the switch and the design over the past few days.

Should the mute switch prevent the device from making any noise, or should it make noise for some select or important events? That’s what everyone seems to be focused on. What I’m interested in is: why does everyone have an opinion on this issue?

Why does everyone and their dog have an opinion?

The mute switch is a bike shed. No, it’s not literally a bike shed, but as a solution to a problem it is. What is a bike shed problem exactly? A bike shed is a problem that’s reasonably well understood by the common person. Since the problem is well understood everyone feels that they are entitled to an opinion on it. In fact, it’s been said that the amount of noise in the decision making process is inversely proportional to the complexity of the problem.

From the definition of a bike shed:

Parkinson shows how you can go in to the board of directors and get approval for building a multi-million or even billion dollar atomic power plant, but if you want to build a bike shed you will be tangled up in endless discussions.

Parkinson explains that this is because an atomic plant is so vast, so expensive and so complicated that people cannot grasp it, and rather than try, they fall back on the assumption that somebody else checked all the details before it got this far. Richard P. Feynmann gives a couple of interesting, and very much to the point, examples relating to Los Alamos in his books.

A bike shed on the other hand. Anyone can build one of those over a weekend, and still have time to watch the game on TV. So no matter how well prepared, no matter how reasonable you are with your proposal, somebody will seize the chance to show that he is doing his job, that he is paying attention, that he is here.

Since everyone has a stake in how the mute switch on the iPhone should work, and the complexity of the problem is low, everyone has an opinion. Those following the debate will point out that the complexity of this problem is anything but low.

It’s a difficult problem with no 100% correct solution. Regardless of the choice made by the designers there would be some class of user that the solution was wrong for. However, that won’t stop people from arguing over what colour this bike shed should be.

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1. I say mute switch because that’s the common term for it. In actuality it’s call the Ring/Silence switch. The difference between the terms is splitting hairs as far as customers are concerned.↩

Twelve South Compass iPad Stand

I recently had a chance to try out the Twelve South Compass iPad stand. I’ve had my eye on it for a long time but never had opportunity to give it a test run for myself.

The Packaging

Unlike pretty much every other accessory maker, Twelve South totally nails it when it comes to packaging. They know that the packaging is the first taste of the product that the customer gets. Well designed, tasteful, easy to open packaging gives the customer a glimpse of how much effort they put into designing the product inside.

In the case of the Compass stand, the package consists of a box containing the stand encased in a plastic shell. The box doesn’t have a lid so the customer can see the stand inside the box through the outer plastic shell. There’s no tape to fuss with, just open the packaging and slide out the box. The Compass sits on a cardboard table in the box and is held in place with white elastic. The fact that they chose to use elastic instead of twist ties is a gift in and of itself.

Underneath the cardboard table there’s a slipcase. The slipcase is simple and speaks for itself. Under the slipcase is a spartan instruction manual with the sole words “Thank You” emblazened on the front. The instruction manual is fairly short: one page. Simple directions for how to use the stand are included. At the end of the instructions is a whimsical section on some uses for the box that the stand came in.

These little touches: the easy to open packaging, well designed box, the full front page of the instructions dedicated to thanking the customer, and whimsical instructions aren’t frivolous. They all come together to give the customer a great first experience. Not just a great first experience with the product, but potentially these details serve as an introduction to the company that made them. They exhibit the ethos of the maker: its attention to detail, its gratitude towards customers, and its fun side.

But enough about the packaging, lets talk about the stand.

The Stand

The Compass isn’t just an iPad stand, it’s a work of art. The stand is solidly built and feels great. It’s heavier than you’d think for something of its size. The brushed finish nicely matches the finish on Apple’s own hardware making the Compass feel at home with your iPad and MacBook Air.

When folded up the Compass is very compact; it’s small enough that you could fit it easily in your pocket or bag and hardly know its there — aside from the weight that is. The small carrying pouch for Compass is a nice touch; it protects not only the stand but anything else that might be rattling around with it in your bag.

The Compass has 2 different modes when unfolded. It can either prop the iPad up like an easel or lay the iPad down at an incline providing for a nice keyboarding surface. When using the Compass as an easel the iPad can sit in either landscape or portrait orientation. In addition, the legs that the iPad stands on are quite a bit longer than needed. The legs being longer means that the compass will work with both iPad 1 and 2, with or without a case. Both of these features make the Compass stand one of the most versatile stands I’ve seen. The versatility coupled with its elegant design, and compact size make for a very compelling and attractive stand.

Unfortunately, as compelling and attractive as the stand is, it has some problems. The main problem I found with the Compass is that the hinge on the back leg was extremely loose. When handling the stand I had to be careful otherwise it would open up. Putting it in its case could sometimes be troublesome as well. But these are minor inconveniences when compared to the biggest problem with the hinge being loose. After some use the Compass would fold itself up and collapse.

The rubberized feet on the bottom of the legs, the shallow angle of the back leg, and the loose hinge worked together to produce a perfect storm. Tapping around the center of the screen would cause the front 2 legs of the stand to lift off the table. With all the force in the back leg and the loose hinge the leg would eventually move into a position where it would fold up and collapse onto the table. If the hinge were tighter not only would this not be a problem, but the stand would also feel much higher quality.

I’m sure they had good reasons for the hinge having as much friction as it does. But a tighter hinge isn’t the only solution. A pin or something similar that holds the back leg in one of two positions would do the trick.

Ignoring the collapsing issue, I’m not sure that the Compass provides a lot of value if you have and iPad 2 with a Smart Cover. The only thing that the Compass provides over the Smart Cover is the freedom to choose orientation — portait or landscape.

Conclusions

While the Compass Stand looks and feels great, but it’s expensive for what benefit you may get out of it. If you have an iPad 2 you likely already have a Smart Cover which provides more value for your money. Regardless, the fact that the stand collapses after moderate tapping is a major problem in my books.

The iPad HDMI Connector

I've been fighting a bit of a cold for the last few days. With a baby and mom that I don't want to give it to I've been sleeping downstairs on our futon. It's actually suprisingly comfortable. But one thing that's been getting tedious over the past few nights is our selection of movies. I usually like to turn on a movie as I wind down for the night, but since our Apple TV with Netflix is upstairs ensconced in the bedroom I've been forced to watch DVDs. As I'm sure you can imagine, its been a while since we've bought any of those, so our selection is pretty thin.

Seeing as I have a perfectly good iPad and HDMI connector I thought I'd give watching Netflix on the TV using the iPad a shot. The good news is that it works as advertised; you plug it all together, set the input on the TV the voila: your Netflix movie on the TV. The bad news is the decidedly un-Apple-like experience of using the thing.

To start its ugly, if utilitarian. It connects through the only multipurpose port on the device: the 30-pin connector. The connector is really wide and the HDMI port is offset to one side with a 30-pin connector next to it. This design makes the whole thing feel bigger than it is and awkward. A better design might have been vertically stacking the HDMI and 30-pin connector ports so that there is a closer ratio of size between the two ends of the HDMI connector.

Thick HDMI cables have a mind of their own in terms of how they bend. Through its own force of will it bends the HDMI connector in all sorts of directions that seem like they'll either break the wires in the connector by twisting them or pull the connector out of the iPad by its weight. I found the contortions of the HDMI connector with a thick HDMI cable to be really worrying.

If I was trying to use the HDMI connector to mirror the iPad's display for a presention it would certainly feel awkward. But these things don't really matter that much if you're just using the dongle as a way of getting the iPad's screen on to the TV for watching a movie as I was. Once the connector and HDMI cable were connected and the iPad was laying down these issues weren't so bad. But then I ran into another problem: the device cannot be asleep while playing and the Smart Cover has to be open.

Once you close the Smart Cover or press the sleep/wake button the signal to the TV shuts off. I can see why this is done when you're running on battery; you want to conserve power so if someone has put the iPad to sleep then don't waste power sending the display over the HDMI connector. I get that, but its a horrible user experience in some situations. A better design would have been to just turn off the display if full screen video is playing when the device is put to sleep and the HDMI connector is attached. Then after the video stops playing automatically sleep the whole device after a minute or two. Wouldn't it be better for battery life to allow the display to be off when the user is doing something non-interactive and using the HDMI connector?

In any case, it did what I needed done so for that I'm thankful. But there are a few design bugs that I think need to be worked out. For an extra $60 you can get an Apple TV that does display mirroring without having to physically attach your iPad to the TV, plus a whole lot more. Either way you go, the iPad has to be awake when the display is mirrored to the TV which is an issue I hope gets addressed in a future release.

SuperDuper! Pro Tip

As much as I love my new MacBook Air, the transition to the new machine hasn't been completely seamless. Like any transition to a new computer, there are bound to be hiccups. One of these hiccups was around my backups. Since I take my backups very seriously, this was something that really bothered me until I was able to figure out what was going wrong.

After migrating all of my data to the new machine I made sure to run SuperDuper! (the best disk cloning software in the universe). It ran perfectly for quite some time but after a few weeks it started to fail by running out of disk space on the backup drive.

When I first partitioned my backup drive I made the clone parition the same size as the boot drive: 120GB. But the MacBook Air has a larger drive in it, double the size at 250GB. I've been careful to make sure that I don't use more than 120GB on the new machine, so surely the problem wasn't that I was using more space than I should be. Or at least that's what I thought.

It turns out that Lion comes with some enhancements to Time Machine. Under Lion, if your backup drive is not connected, Time Machine will continue to run. The backups are stored in /.MobileBackups -- a hidden folder at the root of the boot drive. Since this is effectively temporary storage, Lion doesn't report any of the space used by this directory in the Unix disk free or df command or in the Finder. Essentially, Lion hides the fact that it's using this space from you at all. It does this because it will automatically remove old backups to make room for new files written to disk if need be.

Since SuperDuper! didn't know this it would attempt to copy this directory to the backup drive. Ordinarily this wouldn't be a problem since the clone drive is usually the same size as the drive being cloned. This wasn't the case for me however. After I figured this out I created a new backup script and excluded the /.MobileBackups directory. After applying the changes I haven't had any problems.

So, if SuperDuper! is complaining about running out of disk space when running on Lion, you might want to either:

1. ensure that the size of the drive you're cloning from is the same size as the drive you're cloning to. or;
2. exclude /.MobileBackups from your SuperDuper! backup script.

MacBook Air

A few months back I bought a new MacBook Air. I absolutely love it, it's the best computer I've ever owned. I'm pretty sure I say that about every new computer I get, but this one is head and shoulders above the rest.

Upgrades in the past used to be just incremental updates to the processor, memory, and hard drive. This machine has all of that, but what's amazing is how much faster it feels than every other upgrade I've done. It's really no surprise when you think about it.

There are really only 2 main driving forces that relate to the performance of any application: its use of the procesor, and its use of the hard drive¹. Yes, I'm simplifying here, but typically when you want to optimze a program you need to look at those 2 things.

When a program uses a lot of processor cycles its said to be CPU-bound. That is, the program's performance is bound by the speed of the processor. Conversely, when a program reads and writes to the hard drive a lot it's said to be I/O bound; the performance of the program is bound by how quickly it can read and write data. Very rarely will you ever see a program that's solely CPU bound or I/O bound. Usually different parts of every program have different performance characteristics.

So why is it no surprise that the MacBook Air feels so much faster than any other computer I've ever owned? The MacBook Air has a solid state drive. Solid state drives are a new class of storage media. They optimize for speed while sacrificing total size. To give you an example, you can buy a 256GB SSD for roughly the same price as a 4TB spinning rust² drive. But the speed of these drives is amazing due to how they work. SSDs have more-or-less direct access to any piece of information on the drive. Traditional hard drives have to wait for a spinning platter to come within range of a little arm that can picks the data off the drive. There are physics involved here, traditional hard drives will never be as fast as an SSD, but if you need a lot of storage space you can't go wrong.

You can get an SSD for pretty much any computer, but at this point they're a fairly expensive upgrade. It's been said before that installing an SSD is just like getting a new computer. And while my MacBook Air is certainly a new computer, it feels amazing every time I use it. It's fast. Faster than anything I've ever used before, and that's mostly thanks to the SSD.

There's a lot more that can be said about the MacBook Air. It's simple, tossing out things that most people rarely need anymore like DVD drives, FireWire, and extra USB ports. It's ultra lightweight, something that's really nice to have regardless of whether you care about the weight or not. The choices you have to make are pretty minimal; pick a screen size, processor and memory. The price is very reasonable for a premium product. The fit and finish is excellent. All told, the MacBook Air truly is the Volkscomputer.

1. Yes, I'm simplifying quite a bit here. Performance can also be affected by how much parallel computation a program can do, the layout of the program in memory so that it makes efficient use of the CPU's caches, etc.
2. The term spinning rust refers to the fact that traditional mechanical hard drives contain rust colored platters that spin. Wikipedia has a great article about how these types of drives work.

5 Things You Can Do to Ensure Safety of Your Data and Recoverability of Your Computer

In my previous article I described some of the problems with the approach most people use to secure their data. The problems were all essentially the same: security theatre. In this article I'll outline 5 things that you can do to ensure that your data is safe and increase the likelyhood that you'll be able to get your computer returned.

The advice in this column isn't meant to be prescriptive. Instead, read through the suggestions and make sure that they make sense to you, and for your situation. If you have backups and don't need to be bothered with ensuring the returnabilty of your computer by all means, tighten your machine down. If you're like the rest of us, read on.

1. Backup Your Data -- Offsite

This one's a no-brainer. Backing up your data is one thing, but making sure that you have a good copy of it off site is another. If someone breaks into your house a backup isn't going to be much good to you if it's sitting on the external hard drive conveniently located next to your computer. It doesn't matter if you use one of those automated off site backup solutions like Backblaze or Carbonite, or if you use an old fashioned sneakernet like me. Just make sure you have a recent copy of your data off site.

2. Make Your Computer as Inviting as Possible

If you're used to a higher level of security, this tip might not make a ton of sense. It's true, your computer will be wide open if you do this. While you may want to lock down your computer for the most part, in order to ensure the safe return of your computer you'll want me make it as easy and inviting as possible for a thief to use your computer. If you make it too difficult either they'll never use it, or they'll find someone to wipe it clean so that they can start fresh. If they do the latter you'll never see your data again.

So what do I mean by "make your computer as inviting as possible"? I mean that you should:

1. Set up your account to automatically log in.
2. Remove a power-on password
3. Remove disk encryption

By doing these things you'll ensure that anyone that sits down at your computer will be able to use it for whatever purposes they want. It also means that everything on your computer will be wide open to anyone that wants access to it. To fix that you're going to want to:

1. Lock your keychain
2. Use encrypted disk images

3. Lock your Keychain

The Keychain Access application on the Mac is the unsung hero of password management. Applications use it to store credentials for web sites you go to and services you use. The Finder uses it to store passwords for remote file shares, logins for wireless access points, etc. By default the password to unlock your keychain is synchronized with your login password, and the Keychain remains unlocked while you're logged in. These defaults optimize for user experience, not necessarily security. But hey, at least these can be configured.

To change these settings your going to want to open the Keychain Access application and open its preferences. From the preferences window select the First Aid tab and uncheck the last 2 checkboxes: Set login keychain as default, and Keep login keychain unlocked.

By changing these settings you will need to enter your password whenever an application wants to access some data within the keychain. This will certainly be more annoying than the default settings, but your passwords and anything else stored in the keychain will remain safe should your computer fall into the wrong hands.

4. Use Encrypted Disk Images

As I discussed in a previous post, encrypting your entire hard disk is a one way street. Your data will be safe if your computer gets lost or stolen, but it also means that the computer is completely useless to anyone that finds it. But what if you have sensitive data on your computer? Clearly you want that data to be secure, you just don't want blanket security across the entire hard drive. That's where encrypted disk images come in.

Disk Utility will allow you to create encrypted disk images to store any sensitive data. You can make them virtually any size you want, and use either 128- or 256-bit AES encryption. As of later releases of Mac OS X you can also use a sparse image format. Sparse formats allow you to create a disk of virtually any size, but it will only take up as much physical space on disk as the files that are contained within it. For example if you had a 500MB sparse image but only put 50MB of data in it, the image on disk would only be about 50MB. The best format to use a whole other discussion. But for our purposes, it doesn't matter which one you pick, just make sure its encrypted.

Once you have an encrypted disk image you can then store all of your files within the image. Images can be configured to be mounted automatically upon login by adding them as a login item, but if you don't need to access those files very frequently, its best to leave the images un-mounted until they're needed.

With all of your sensitive data stored in encrypted disk images you can be assured that your data will be safe if your computer gets lost or stolen.

5. Install a Snooping Tool

Lastly, to have any hope of getting a stolen computer back, you're best bet is to install a snooping tool. These tools take screen shots and pictures with a computer's camera, report location and IP information, and do many other things to snoop on a thief or help get your computer back. An excellent and free tool that does this is Prey.

Once installed, Prey sits idle until you log into the web site to report your computer as lost or stolen. From there you can configure it to snoop on the thief at selected intervals. By using information gathered by Prey and the help of police many people have been able to retrieve their stolen computer.

Safety and Security

It occurred to me recently that if someone were to steal a computer there are really 2 things the victim needs to think about: the privacy of their data, and whether or not they'll be able to get their computer back. These goals aren't entirely opposed, but it does require a little bit of work in order to have it both ways.

There are lots of choices available to ensure the privacy of your data. You can use a power-on password to prevent the machine from being booted without the correct password. This is a fairly good trade off between a hassle for you and protection, but it does have some serious flaws. Using a power-on password doesn't actually do anything other than the name implies. The data on the disk is still unencrypted. If someone wants to get at the data, they can simply put the hard drive in another machine and have free range access to anything on the disk. A power-on password will just make the machine less valuable to the average thief, but they won't know that until after they've taken it.

Another option is to leave the machine without a power-on password but instead password protect your account. In this scenario, the computer will boot into the OS, but will not allow anyone to use it without first logging in. The only difference between account passwords and power-on passwords is that it requires the password later. Account passwords have a side benefit in that if you forget your password you can re-install the OS and retain all of the user files from the previous install. Your data isn't safe; someone can put the hard drive into another machine to get access to your information. But it does make the machine slightly less valuable. And as with power-on passwords they won't know until after they've taken it.

These solutions are all privacy theatre; they appear to protect your data when in actuallity your data is still unsafe, just more difficult to access. As any security expert¹ will tell you, security through obscurity is not security. The only true way to protect your data is to encrypt it. Most operating systems support some for of full disk encryption, whether its built into the operating system ala Mac OS X Lion, or provided by a 3rd party with PGP. Full disk encryption does what the name implies. It encrypts the entire contents of the disk. If someone was to take the encrypted disk from one computer and put it into another, the contents of the disk would still be inaccessible without a password. This is about your only option in terms of ensuring the privacy of your data.

But this is all for naught if you need your data and your computer gets stolen. It doesn't matter how private your data is if you'll never see it again². If you've got a backup strategy then at least your data will be safe, but computers aren't cheap and if you're like me, you'd like to get it back³. So what can you do to protect your data and help to ensure that you get your computer back if it gets stolen?

That's a good question, worthy of its own post. Come back next week to find out.

1. Is there really such a thing as a security expert?
2. It does matter since all of your secrets will remain secrets. But if you're storing that data it's likely that you need it.
3. Really, I'm not sure I'd want